Exploring Southwest Virginia
Some of you may not know this yet (I think I’ve only talked about it on Instagram) but back in March I spontaneously moved to Southwest Virginia. Yes, that’s a HUGE change from Philly!
I figured it made more sense to live closer to my boyfriend and rent a place where the cost of living is cheaper, as opposed to paying for a place in the Philadelphia area when I am constantly traveling for work/fun or visiting him in Virginia. At the time, I rationalized that it didn’t really matter where my home base was since I am always on the road. How was I to know my move-in date would coincide perfectly with the arrival of a global pandemic and that travel, as I knew it, would no longer be an option?
While I have no idea if I would have made the move if I knew what was coming, I am glad I did. It’s been nice to be in a rural area with natural social distancing and plenty of outdoor activities during this time. It’s also been fun, at a time when I can’t travel, to have someplace new to explore.
Along with COVID messing up all my travel plans, it also stopped my mom from accompanying me on moving day. She had planned to come stay with me for a few days and help me get settled. But with everything out of control (COVID-19 hit the South Jersey/Philadelphia area just 3 days before I was supposed to leave), we decided it was best for her to stay home. And so it wasn’t until just this month that she finally had the opportunity to come visit me, see my new place and explore the area.
We’re really close and used to seeing each other at least a few times per month, if not more, so being 8 hours away and under lockdown has been difficult. (I originally intended to visit her and my friends every month.) After being on stay-at-home orders all spring and summer, worrying about her parents, me, and everything else, my mom really needed some time to relax. I decided it would be nice to use her visit as an opportunity to create a little vacation for her (and a staycation for me).
Here are some of the highlights, along with some tips for planning your own staycation.
White Birch Kitchen & Juice Bar
When I first started exploring Abingdon as a potential place to move I discovered White Birch Kitchen & Juice Bar, an adorable restaurant and wine/coffee/juice bar serving up delicious farm-fresh breakfasts and lunches. I imagined my mom coming to visit and us spending the day co-working on our laptops. We would start the day with juice and coffee, break for lunch, get back to work and later, close out the day with a glass of wine.
We used to have a coffee/wine bar where we lived in North Carolina, and she’s always talking about how she wishes there were more of them, so I knew she would love the spot.
On the first morning of her visit, I decided to scrap my plan of making a frittata and instead suggested we go snag one of the sidewalk tables out front of White Birch.
It may not have been my original fantasy (why my fantasies involve work is probably a question for my therapist…) but it sure was fun to go out for breakfast. Sitting safely distanced from other tables on the sidewalk in Downtown Abingdon’s Historic District, it was easy to forget about the pandemic for a bit and just enjoy our time together.
Sisters American Grill at The Martha Washington Inn & Spa
Friday night we wanted to try and go out for a drink and a snack someplace. Even though the case count is low in this area, it was important to us that we find a place with plenty of spacious outdoor seating where we could feel both safe and comfortable. The first two places we stopped by were a little too crowded for our comfort, so we decided to pass on them both. I then tried calling two places, both of which were booked up. On a whim (and because I was running out of ideas), I suggested we check out the situation at Sisters American Grill, the restaurant within the Martha Washington Inn & Spa.
Over its 188 year history, the Martha has served as the home of General Robert Preston, a girls’ college, a makeshift hospital for both Yankees and Confederates during the Civil War, and housing for actors and actresses performing at the historic Barter Theatre (located across the street) before eventually becoming a hotel in 1935.
When we arrived, their outdoor seating was already booked up, but they had a very spacious lounge area that was almost completely empty and very well spaced out. To my own surprise, I felt completely comfortable taking them up on their offer to sit inside. I really thought I was months out from feeling comfortable sitting inside a public place.
While sharing a bottle of Chenin Blanc from Dry Creek Vineyards, we snacked on some delicious curly fries (don’t judge!) and a fantastic heirloom tomato salad.
The Barter Theatre
One of Abingdon’s main tourist attractions is the Barter Theatre, the state theater of Virginia.
The Barter Theatre, one of the country’s only remaining year-round professional resident repertory theaters, has seen many great actors perform on its stage in the early years of their careers. These greats include Gregory Peck, Wayne Knight, Elizabeth Wilson, Patricia Neal, Gary Collins, Frances Fisher and many more.
A unique piece of the Barter Theatre’s story is actually how it got started. The theater opened in 1933, in the middle of the Great Depression. As cash, especially for entertainment purposes, was hard to come by, patrons of the theatre were offered the opportunity to pay for their tickets by bartering food, livestock or other goods.
With such a creative history, it is no surprise they didn’t let COVID-19 rattle them this summer. Instead of closing up shop, they declared, “The show must go on!” and took their production offsite to a non-functioning drive-in movie theater. At the Moonlite Drive-In, actors perform on a stage built just for this occasion while the action is projected onto the movie screen (sort of like if you were at a concert) while audio is broadcast via the radio.
The experience is billed as completely contactless and “developed under the guidance of the Barter Theatre Medical Advisory Board” but still I was skeptical since many businesses have been marketing themselves this way these days, with very little action to back it up. However, I was pleasantly surprised. This experience at the Barter was my first and only truly contactless experience during the pandemic.
Tickets for the play were purchased online, we printed them and placed them on the dashboard of the car (windows were required to be rolled up at this point) so a Barter representative could look at it. Then there were ushers acting as parking attendants and holding up welcome signs with important information like “Tune your radio to 100.5.” There were also port-a-potties available with attendants standing guard ready to spray each one down with industrial grade sanitizer after each use. And no concessions were being sold so that left us free to pack our own snacks without feeling guilty.
Finally, their production of The Wizard of Oz was delightful. I honestly wasn’t sure what to expect with the combination of stage and movie screen but they really blew me away with their creativity and use of technology. For example they were able to work in special effects like smoke, rainbows, and a hot air balloon when the action called for it.
Next up they are performing Beauty and the Beast and Mary Poppins. I am sure they will both be just as great.
Abingdon Farmers Market
It may not be what I am used to, coming from Philadelphia and the Garden State, but the Abingdon Farmers Market is a pretty decent size with a nice selection for a small town. They set up every Tuesday afternoon and Saturday morning just a block off Main Street. The vendors’ offerings range from sweet treats, baked goods, fresh cut flowers, and artisanal soaps to a variety of locally grown produce, farm fresh eggs, locally raised meats and much more.
Everyone at the Farmers Market is required to wear a mask, even though they’re outside, and social distancing is encouraged with signage throughout the pavilion. These precautions help me feel comfortable whenever I go and peruse the booths.
In order to keep the fun of our vacation going, we picked up a few local treats, a couple bottles of locally-sourced hard cider, and some produce from the market that we used later that weekend on some new recipes.
The Virginia Creeper Trail
Besides The Barter Theatre, another Abingdon tourist attraction is an old train route that has been converted into a 34.3 mile walking/biking trail that passes through Southwest Virginia. The Creeper Trail begins in Abingdon, Virginia and travels through two counties, ending near the North Carolina border. There are multiple access points along the trail which makes it possible for visitors to explore different sections.
During my mom’s visit we were able to explore a different section (all within about a 20 minute drive of my house) almost every day. I love that each section offers different scenery. Some spots are more mountainous and wooded while others are more open and meadowy.⠀
Note: If you’re anything like me, you’re probably wondering why it’s called the Creeper Trail. It sounds like the kind of place a solo female traveler might be abducted, right?
I have read two different explanations for the name. The first is that the train which traveled through this area was nicknamed “The Creeper” because of its slow travel speed. The other explanation is that it’s named after the Virginia Creeper plant that is all over this area. I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s actually some combination of the two.
Hungry Mother State Park
Hungry Mother State Park is located in the neighboring town of Marion. This 3,334 acre beautiful state park is wooded and mountainous with a 108 acre man-made lake, miles of hiking trails, dozens of cabins, multiple campgrounds and a swim beach. Hungry Mother was one of Virginia’s very first state parks and, when it was founded, provided the region with an affordable recreational activity not found anywhere else in the area.
When my mom and I were discussing things to do during her visit, we talked about trying to find somewhere we could spend some time on the water -- possibly kayaking or paddle boarding. The lake at Hungry Mother came to mind. I’d only been there once before (in February when I was first contemplating my move) and at that point the lake was drained so I’d had to use my imagination. After looking into kayak and paddle board rentals at a few private rental companies, I decided to go with Hungry Mother since the State Park prices were more affordable.
While I’ve paddle boarded before in both rivers and bays, my mom was a little nervous to give it a try. The currents here were mild and it was the perfect spot for a beginner. She ended up loving it. After paddling all over the lake, and even partially up the peaceful creek, we enjoyed a picnic on the bank where the creek meets the lake.
If we’d had more time, I would have liked to explore some of the hiking trails and relax at the swim beach. Next time!
Abingdon Vineyards
Another highlight of our week was Abingdon Vineyards. This little winery is a nicely wooded spot along the South Fork Holston River, just about a half mile up the road from the Alvarado stop on the Virginia Creeper Trail. The winery was founded in 2001 and taken over in 2018 by Loren and Elizabeth Gardner, a young couple from Napa Valley, California. They’re dedicated to bringing the quality of Napa Valley’s wines to the Southwest region of Virginia.
The winery provides plenty of outdoor space to sit by the river (some people even arrive by boat) or the creek with your wine. Customers are encouraged to bring along snacks or pack a picnic. If you don’t pack a picnic, you can just pop inside their shop and pick up all the essentials to arrange a quick cheese or charcuterie board to pair with your wine. They also offer a full schedule of events throughout the year, including tastings, live music, a monthly book club, yoga classes, pop-up shops for local artists, and much more.
Mom loved it so much that we ended up there twice in one week!
The Wild Ponies at Grayson Highlands
My mom has always loved horses. When she was young she often fantasized about running away to Kentucky and stealing a horse. Naturally when I learned about the wild ponies at Grayson Highlands State Park, I knew visiting would have to be a top priority during her time here in Virginia.
Getting there was quite the adventure in itself - about an hour of driving, with no cell signal, on very curvy and sometimes steep rural roads. Once we arrived, I immediately knew we hadn't left ourselves enough time (I will definitely have to go back). I'd only researched the trail recommended for seeing the wild ponies. I hadn't realized the park was SO BIG (4,822 acres!) or that there would be so much more to explore.
The Highlands reminded me of being someplace out west, like Colorado, more than any places I've seen here on the East Coast. Upon arrival we headed straight for the Rhododendron Trail. This short (.3 mile one way) trail is mildly steep and rocky but once you get to the top it flattens out and you can pretty much wander wherever (but don’t because it’s really easy to get lost!). If you continue another quarter of a mile or so, the path intersects with the Appalachian Trail (like I said, there’s A LOT to explore here). Just before reaching the AT, we came across a small herd of ponies including a baby. It was really fun to watch them in the wild but even more fun to watch my mom’s excitement (I think she may have been fantasizing about hopping on one of them and escaping down the AT).
The Ice Cream Stop
We really like going out for ice cream!
My mom lives at the beach and, in the summer, when I visit we have to force ourselves not to go out for ice cream every night. With that in mind, I've been eyeing Abingdon’s Ice Cream Stop all Summer in anticipation of her visit. Every night we planned to go out for ice cream, but every night we ended up eating dinner so late (thanks to staying so busy) that they were closed by the time we finished.
Finally, on the last night of her visit, we wised up and decided to just have ice cream for dinner. The Ice Cream Stop is located on a busy road and doesn't look all that attractive from the outside, but they have a friendly staff, seem to be following safety guidelines for COVID-19, and serve up award-winning hand-dipped Ashby's ice cream in a variety of flavors you don't see everywhere.
Ice cream for dinner was the perfect way to wrap up our perfect week!
We had such a fun time exploring Abingdon and Southwest Virginia during our week together and, while it certainly made me miss being home and closer to my mom, it got me excited about all there is to do and continue exploring in my new hometown.
If you’re interested in planning your own staycation, here are some of my tips:
Touch base with your local Visitor Center or Chamber of Commerce. They not only can help you identify what local attractions are currently open, but they can also give you tips on off-the-beaten-path activities and hidden gems you may not be aware of.
Check local parks, state parks, or national parks to see what kind of activities and events they are offering. A lot of places are doing socially distanced outdoor movies, yoga classes, boat rentals, guided hikes, and more.
Visit your local farmers market, and then try to incorporate some new recipes to help break you out of your routine. You may even be able to find a cooking class online for a place you’ve always wanted to travel.
A twist on the previous tip is to look for recipes from places you wish you could travel to, put on a movie that takes place there, or play some traditional music and just make believe.
Make a list of things you've always wanted to do (within 2 hours of home) then actually put them on the calendar and get to it.
Finally, trust your gut. If you're planning to go somewhere and when you get there your intuition says, “No,” just trust it. These are unprecedented times and caring for yourself both mentally and physically is important.